06 June, 2008

Middle Cambodia

We visited the small city of Kompong Cham which is situated in central Cambodia on the banks of the Mekong river. The river is really brown at the moment on account of the rains having started, and its very very wide. Wide like the Nile wide, not like the Yarra river wide!

Kompong Cham is also the site of the only bridge that crosses the Mekong in Cambodia. In Phnom Penh (the capital) they still use barges to get everything across the river, a little backwards but considering how much of a monstrosity the bridge in Kompong Cham is compared to the rest of the infrastructure in Cambodia you can understand why. We did a tuk tuk tour around the area for the afternoon. Our tuk tuks were propelled by very cheap but cool looking Chinese motor bikes, and lovely Khmer drivers who were more than appreciative of our custom.

First stop was one of the local weaving villages. The area around Kompong Cham is famous for its fantastically coloured and detailed Khmer scarves which we found out have a thousand and one uses: cover yourself while bathing, sun hat, turban, veil, neck scarf and to make your head flat on top so you can carry stuff around on it etc etc. The lady who demonstrated the weaving to us had the biggest goiter that I had ever seen, but she seemed happy and healthy enough!

Anyhow, it takes two days to make a scarf and they sold them to us for $2 USD. Which is not a lot of money. The village kids followed us around from the minute we got out of the tuk tuks and were so excited when the got to see their faces on our digital cameras. The village kids also taught us the game where you have to kick your shoes to knock over a pile of rubber bands, we were all really bad at it but it was pretty fun.

Next stop was a temple, Wat Henchey on the top of the "man and woman"hill. It had a beautiful garden and the most impressive library building I've ever seen. The top of the library had a massive smiling Buddha head on it, which beats the state library in my books any day! Oh yeah and there were monkeys - we hate monkeys.

Next stop was Wat Nokor (another temple) where we had a cultural dancing show put on for us by the local orphans, they were all very lovely kids and one of the little girls adopted Me - she was so so sweet. They live off the money from the donations they get from the cultural show, so we gave them a good one! After this we had a little afternoon siesta and then we headed to one of our tuk tuk drivers house's where his wife had cooked the most magnificent spread for us. The highlight of which was the fried crickets, cheap beer and the traditional Khmer coconut chicken curry which was the best one that we have had by far. It was a brilliant night, we got to eat dinner on their bamboo floor in their house on stilts. We also got to talk to them about:
  • prices of houses -$12 000 USD in this case, for 1 big room,1 bedroom, bathroom and kitchen, home loans - they borrowed money from the rich peoplehow to make money - fattening up pigs is a good option when there are no tourists that want to take tuk tuks!
  • weddings - they get changed about 5 times and their parents pay for everything!

Even though these people were poor and live very simply compared to us they were obviously very happy, even if a lot of their time was spent worrying about how to make enough money to feed their family. We have had a few reality checks on this trip already and this fabulous day in Kompong Cham was one of them.

3 comments:

Lily and Burnely said...

hi i finally found your blog, it all sounds totally ace! miss you lots xoxo

woof woof - from lils and burns

HB said...

Mills's, Good blog. Not as good as crikey, but hey, you're only a team of two and have very little access to the house on the hill so I'll forgive you. I'm still not coming here for politcal rumours though. That's what a blog is for right?

Anyway, very interested in the last entry. A number of reasons:
- the headscarves you speak of are probably similar tot he sub continental Pashmina. They also go for two US bucks so it seems like there is a good level of global standardisation going on there. Lets get rid of the Big Mac index and install the head scarf index. Much more stable and a useful present for back home. We are in winter now you know - your mum would love one.
- The shoe game sounds like a lot of fun, so please remember the rules to export it back here. I am short on rubber bands here at the moment, so you might want to send some of them back wtih the scarves.
- There is a good library in Canberra - the national library. I have edited a book that will soon reside in there. Thats right, HB will finally be published.
- Fried crickets......probably not alot of nutrition.
- House prices. Now theres an interesting topic. Sal and I went for a walk this morning down to the lake. We walked past an impressive looking place with a display unit for a joint going up in the next three years. It's basically the best spot in Canberra. Views either of the lake or Black Mountain/uni. Long story short, Sal and I are a little lighter in the hip pocket. See if you can get that loan shark you met over there to sort some cash flow into the Barlow household. we have had to cancel the wedding and all now. Crikey - talk about impulse buying; I knew I was bad but this is taking things to a whole new level.
This should probably go in an email.

Good luck an all. HB and Sal

PS, the wedding isn't OFF off, just getting scaled down from Thailand to the farm. Still looking at Nov.

Brock Mills said...

Well congrats must go to Shellbox for that as she's the author of that little nugget.

- I agree with the hardscarve index (check out this photo of the chick weaving - is that not the biggest goiter ever seen? here), although I wish to propose a pirated DVD index for the developing world.I think it has a nice spread of the market power and also availability of technology

- I'll try with the shoe game but it was pretty complicated

- Fried crickets are simply a vessel for oil

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